Our skin’s health and appearance depend on the skin barrier’s functionality. This defensive layer stands between our internal organs and the outside world, protecting us from harmful elements.
This article explains the role of the skin barrier, what weakens it, and how to protect and repair it.
What Is a Skin Barrier?
The skin barrier is the skin’s outermost layer, which acts as a shield between our internal organs and the environment. It also regulates transepidermal water loss, preventing excessive evaporation of water through the skin and dehydration.
The skin’s top layer is the epidermis, and its outermost layer is the stratum corneum. Skin experts typically refer to stratum corneum to denote the skin barrier.
This layer is primarily composed of dead skin cells (corneocytes) embedded in an intercellular lipid matrix consisting of fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol. The structural protein filaggrin forms in deeper epidermal layers but migrates to the stratum corneum, where it breaks down into natural moisturizing factors to maintain skin hydration. Additionally, the skin barrier contains antimicrobial peptides, which kill harmful microorganisms and improve the immune response.
In essence, the whole epidermis contributes to maintaining the skin’s natural protective function.
What Are the Layers of the Skin Barrier?
Skin experts recognize several key defense layers of the skin barrier:
Permeability Barrier
The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum creates a permeability barrier, preventing transepidermal water loss, maintaining adequate water content, and providing a physical and chemical defense against environmental aggressors, such as pollutants and allergens.
Note: Learn more about skin pollution.
Antimicrobial Barrier
The antimicrobial barrier is responsible for preventing and responding to pathogens. It consists of antimicrobial lipids, peptides, and proteins synthesized in deeper epidermal layers and delivered to the stratum corneum. They inhibit the growth of pathogens and act as the body’s innate defense mechanism. Antimicrobial peptides also have potent wound-healing effects and promote tissue repair.
The skin’s naturally low pH value and nutrient-poor surface further support the antimicrobial barrier by limiting the growth of harmful microorganisms.
Immune Response Barrier
The skin barrier is crucial to innate and adaptive immune mechanisms. It recruits various immune cells in the dermis and epidermis, including Langerhans cells and mast cells responsible for detecting and neutralizing pathogens, regulating inflammatory responses, and preventing autoimmune reactions.
Photoprotection Barrier
Melanin and trans-urocanic acid in the skin shield it from UV radiation, preventing sunburn, DNA damage, and photoaging. This function overlaps with physical defense and immune response, contributing to overall skin protection against UV-induced stress.
What Does the Skin Barrier Do?
The skin barrier is our body’s first-line defense against external and internal stressors. It has several key functions:
- Protection from harmful environmental elements (UV, pollution, toxins, allergens).
- Defense against microorganisms and infections.
- Facilitating skin regeneration and wound healing.
- Modulating the immune response.
- Limiting water loss and preventing dehydration.
- Regulating body temperature through sweating.
- Helping to maintain smooth and elastic skin.
- Enabling sensory perception through neurons in the skin that respond to touch and temperature.
What Weakens the Skin Barrier?
Various factors weaken and damage the skin barrier. They include:
- UV damage
- Environmental pollutants
- Exposure to allergens
- Physical trauma
- Dry air
- Low humidity
- Extreme weather (hot or cold)
- Using overly hot water
- Harsh skincare ingredients
- Over-exfoliation
- Aging
- Genetics (e.g., filaggrin deficiency)
- Stress
- Lack of sleep
- Alcohol and nicotine
- High intake of saturated fats, refined sugars, certain additives, etc.
How Do I Tell if My Skin Barrier Is Damaged?
Dry or dehydrated skin is the first sign of a damaged skin barrier. Dehydration can lead to other cosmetic concerns, including:
- Redness
- Itching
- Flaky or scaly skin
- Rough patches
- Discoloration
- Sensitive, inflamed, or painful areas
- Loss of skin elasticity
- Wrinkles
More severe concerns arising from dry skin and damaged skin barrier include:
How to Protect the Skin Barrier?
Protecting the skin barrier helps prevent premature skin aging and more severe medical concerns, such as chronic infections, dermatitis, and even asthma. Adequate and consistent skin care is central to preserving the skin’s function and glow.
Gentle Cleansers
Cleansing helps remove daily impurities from the skin’s surface, including dirt, dead skin cells, excess sebum, and makeup. However, products with harsh chemicals like sulfates and parabens strip the skin of natural oils, disturbing sebum production and thinning the skin barrier.
Wash your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser formulated with a slightly acidic pH value (resembling that of our skin). Use lukewarm water and gently tap the skin with a towel instead of rubbing it.
iS Clinical Cream Cleanser is an established classic designed for people with dry or sensitive skin and those who want to provide rich nourishment and protection to their epidermal barrier.
Barrier-Enhancing Moisturizers
Moisturizing is a crucial step in the daily skincare routine. Quality moisturizers contain barrier-repairing ingredients, such as ceramides and humectants. They mimic the skin’s hydrating function, pulling moisture from deeper skin layers into the epidermis and preventing water loss.
Some of the best humectants include:
- Beta-glucan
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic acid
- Ceramides
- Panthenol
- Fatty acids
- Urea
- Gotu kola (Centella asiatica)
Other ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier and provide various cosmetic benefits include:
- Antioxidants such as vitamin C, glutathione, and niacinamide
- Lipid-mimicking ingredients like jojoba oil and squalane
- Botanicals with soothing, anti-inflammatory effects, such as chamomile extract, willow herb, etc.
SkinMedica’s Replenish Hydrating Cream is suitable for all skin types, providing relief from dryness and irritation, and defending against free radicals. Vitamin E supports the skin barrier, hyaluronic acid helps retain moisture, and bisabolol (derived from chamomile) calms and soothes irritated skin.
Natural Oils
People with especially dry skin may want to add a layer of hydration with a natural oil containing occlusive ingredients – those that seal in moisture on the skin’s surface, preventing it from escaping. High-quality occlusive ingredients include jojoba, argan, safflower, avocado, and coconut oil.
Osmosis MD Nourish Avocado Facial Oil deeply hydrates the skin and protects it from environmental aggressors, helping to maintain the skin’s suppleness and glow.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is the ultimate skincare product because it blocks UV radiation, the primary cause of many skin concerns. Skin experts recommend applying some every day, even in winter, to reduce the risk of skin barrier damage, premature aging, and skin diseases (including cancer).
When choosing sunscreen, look for broad-spectrum, SPF 30+ sunscreen with physical sun-blocking ingredients, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Apply it as the last step in your daytime skincare regimen.
Avoid the sun in peak hours, but if this is not possible, reapply sunscreen every two hours.
ZO Skin Health Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50 provides strong protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays, while replenishing moisture with hydrating agents (glycerin, erythritol, etc.) and relieving inflamed skin with bisabolol and beta-glucan.
Preventing skin barrier damage is the best way to maintain skin health and a youthful appearance. Keep your skincare routine simple, avoid irritating, oil-stripping ingredients, and be consistent.
Note: Read our ultimate skincare guide for more tips on how to nourish and protect your skin.
How Do I Fix My Skin Barrier?
Patients whose skin barrier is already compromised have several treatment options. It is best to consult a skin professional who will examine the patient’s skin and recommend an effective strategy. This way, patients avoid the potential dangers of using treatments and products that may further damage their protective barrier.
Skincare Products
Moisturizers are essential in treating damaged skin barrier. They help the skin’s self-repair mechanisms, such as activating the synthesis of lipids, amino acids, and antimicrobial peptides, which contribute to barrier function.
Microbiome cosmetics are gaining recognition as a potent aid in restoring the necessary moisture and natural lipid barrier. They are skincare products with probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics that improve gut microbiota and strengthen the skin barrier.
Vibrant’s new line of microbiome-friendly products, especially Biome Enzyme Cleanser, Vibrant C Serum, and Desert Vibe Serum, are formulated with potent ingredients that support barrier health and improve related skin concerns. They help balance oil production, reduce acne, minimize skin inflammation, stimulate collagen production, decrease wrinkles, and help manage more severe skin conditions, such as psoriasis and eczema.
Supplements
Dietary supplements may also help reduce transepidermal water loss, increase hydration, and help repair weakened skin barrier. The most effective products include vitamin D, omega-3 fatty acids, prebiotics with probiotics, powerful antioxidants vitamin C and E, collagen peptides, and more.
Vibrant Collagen is a unique blend of three patented collagen peptides that promote collagen synthesis, increase skin hydration, accelerate barrier repair, and improve skin elasticity.
Vibrant Biome also benefits patients with poor gut health and impaired epidermal barrier function. It helps increase the balance of beneficial intestinal bacteria, improving various skin concerns related to reduced lipid function and dehydration.
Medications
Chronic, untreated skin barrier damage leads to more severe skin conditions – atopic dermatitis, rosacea, inflammatory acne, and psoriasis. Dermatologists prescribe oral and topical medications to alleviate symptoms, such as swelling, itching, redness, inflammation, and pimples. Drugs include topical retinoids, steroid creams, alpha and beta blockers, NSAIDs, immunosuppressants, antibiotics, antihistamines, etc.
Cosmetic Treatments
Certain cosmetic treatments can help reverse premature aging signs stemming from weakened barrier function. Patients should avoid treatments involving harsh chemicals, such as chemical peels, or more invasive methods like microneedling. The following procedures are gentle, reduce inflammation, and build collagen, helping to strengthen the skin barrier.
- LED light therapy – It uses UV light to stimulate the natural healing process and improve symptoms of dry, compromised skin.
- Oxygen facial – Infuses the skin with bursts of oxygen, enhancing blood circulation, nutrient delivery to the skin, collagen and elastin synthesis, and cell turnover, contributing to a healthier skin barrier.
- Holistic facial – A gentle face massage involving the infusion of botanical serums and creams, which improve hydration and stimulate the skin’s self-repair mechanisms.
Contact a skilled skin professional for a customized treatment plan based on your unique skin condition.
Lifestyle Modifications
Gentle, moisturizing skincare products and other barrier-enhancing treatments give the best results when combined with healthy lifestyle habits. They include:
- Proper nutrition – Limit or eliminate foods that are high in sugar, saturated fats, salt, and additives. Eat more anti-inflammatory foods like antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables, nuts and seeds rich in healthy fats, lean protein, and whole grains. Include fermented foods with probiotics and prebiotics to improve gut health – kefir, yogurt, kimchi, sauerkraut, etc.
- Adequate water intake – Drink at least eight cups of water daily to ensure proper hydration from within.
- No alcohol and nicotine – Alcohol is a natural diuretic, dehydrating the skin and disrupting the natural lipid barrier. Nicotine smoke also impairs the skin barrier, lowering nutrient and oxygen delivery, increasing inflammation, and disrupting wound healing. It is best to avoid both for overall health.
- Stress relief – Stress significantly impacts various factors affecting the skin, including hormonal balance, gut health, sleep pattern, and inflammatory response. Employ stress-relieving tactics, such as moderate physical activity, relaxing hobbies, meditation, etc.
- Enough sleep – Prolonged sleep deprivation increases transepidermal water loss and dehydration, damaging skin integrity. Health experts recommend seven to nine hours of undisturbed sleep at night to restore natural barrier function and improve associated skin concerns.
How Long Does It Take to Repair a Weakened Skin Barrier?
Everyone’s skin is different, so it isn’t easy to determine the duration of skin barrier repair. Skin experts estimate a period of several weeks for minor damage to several months for more severe skin problems. The key to seeing an improvement lies in consistency in employing adequate skin care and improving lifestyle habits.
Can the Skin Barrier Get Damaged for Good?
Some factors can permanently damage the skin, including aging, genetic disorders, physical injury, and prolonged exposure to toxic chemicals. Cosmetic treatments and skincare products may improve barrier function but not fully restore it.
What Not to Use When Repairing the Skin Barrier?
Skin barrier repair requires a gentle approach and consistent use of hydrating and soothing products. Don’t use cosmetics with harsh ingredients, such as:
- Parabens and other preservatives
- Artificial fragrances
- Sulfates
- Alcohol (ethanol)
- Petrolatum
Also, refrain from ingredients with an alkaline pH value (above 7), retinol, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, salicylic acid, and high concentrations of potent antioxidants like vitamin C. They provide various benefits to the skin but may exacerbate symptoms of a disrupted skin barrier. Start using them again after redness, flaking, itching, and inflammation subside.
Conclusion
The skin barrier is our body’s vital defensive layer. Various skincare treatments are available for compromised barrier function, but some damage may be irreversible. Be consistent with daily hydration, adequate skin care, and healthy lifestyle habits to prevent skin barrier damage, protect your skin’s health, and maintain a youthful glow.
