Retinol and retinoids are potent reparative skincare ingredients that people tend to mix up. They help stimulate skin cell turnover and collagen production, minimize acne and acne scars, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Understanding their differences can enhance their effectiveness, ensure optimal results, and reduce potential complications.
This article explores how retinol and retinoids differ and provides practical tips on how to use them to achieve your cosmetic goals.
What Is Retinol?
Retinol is a type of retinoid, a vitamin A derivative used in skincare products. While it is typically found in animal-derived foods, the body can also convert beta-carotene from plant sources into retinol.
Retinol is touted for its ability to:
- Improve skin texture.
- Reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
- Enhance skin tone.
- Exfoliate the skin.
- Increase collagen and elastin production.
- Minimize hyperpigmentation.
- Unclog pores.
- Reduce acne.
- Smooth acne scars.
Retinol is gentler than other retinoids due to the low concentration of the active ingredient retinoic acid and has a less potent effect on the skin because it takes longer to break down.
Note: Learn the difference between retinol and hyaluronic acid and how to use them to improve skin quality.
What Are Retinoids?
Retinoid is an umbrella term for all vitamin A-based skincare products, including over-the-counter retinol and prescription retinoids.
Prescribed retinoids break down into retinoic acid faster than OTC retinol-based products, which increases their power and effectiveness. These potent antioxidants promote collagen growth, reduce wrinkles and acne, treat psoriasis, and even some forms of cancer.
The most common retinoid types are all FDA-approved and include the following:
- Tretinoin (Altreno, Avita, Refissa, Renova, Retin-A) – It was first FDA-approved as an anti-acne topical in 1971. It also treats fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and keratosis pilaris.
- Adapalene (Differin®) – Adapalene 0.1% gel is for over-the-counter use in patients over 12 years of age, while stronger formulations like 0.1% lotion, cream, and 0.3% gel remain prescription-only.
- Tazarotene (Tazorac®) – This acne-fighting topical is available by prescription only. It also treats psoriasis and skin aging symptoms caused by sun damage, such as photoaging.
- Trifarotene (Aklief®) – This fourth-generation retinoid topical is available by prescription only and used to treat acne in patients aged nine years and older.
- Isotretinoin (Accutane®) - An oral medication available by prescription only for severe acne (e.g., nodular acne), which aren’t responding well to conventional therapy.
- Bexarotene (Targretin®) – This third-generation retinoid is a cancer drug used to treat advanced skin lymphomas known as cutaneous T-cell lymphoma (CTCL).
- Alitretinoin (Panretin®) – This vitamin A-derivative treats Kaposi's sarcoma, acne vulgaris, and is used off-label for chronic hand eczema and psoriasis.
Retinol vs. Retinoid: What Are the Differences?
The following table presents the key differences between retinol and retinoids.
Retinol | Retinoid | |
Active ingredient | Low-concentration retinoic acid. | High-concentration retinoic acid. |
Strength and conversion rate | Mild and slowly converts into retinoic acid. | Strong and works faster because it is directly active as retinoic acid. |
Formulations | Available in OTC creams, serums, and oils and often combined with other ingredients. | Available in creams, gels, liquid forms, or prescribed medication (e.g., capsules). |
Does it require a prescription? | No. | Most retinoids, such as tretinoin, require a prescription. Adapalene is the only retinoid that can be obtained without a prescription. |
Who is it suitable for? | All skin types. However, retinol is more suitable for sensitive skin than retinoids due to the lower risk of irritation. | All skin types. Consult your dermatologist to determine the most suitable formulation and dosage for your skin type and issue. |
Side effects | May cause temporary dryness, flakiness, redness, itchiness, and burning sensations. | May cause skin inflammation, dryness, burning sensations, increased risk of sunburn, skin discoloration, and blistering. |
Time to see results | Improvements are visible after 3 to 6 months, depending on how consistently you apply it. | Results are visible after 6 to 12 weeks, depending on the skin issue and product strength. |
Retinol and Retinoid Molecular Structure and Strength
Retinols have a lower concentration of retinoic acid and are thus less potent than retinoids, which have a higher concentration of the active ingredient and are more readily absorbed by the skin.
The body metabolizes milder retinoid derivatives (e.g., retinyl esters, retinol) into more active forms like retinal and retinoic acid. The effectiveness of the ingredient depends on the rate at which they are converted into their active form. If a retinoid has a molecular structure that requires more steps to become active, its potency will be lower compared to one that converts more directly to retinoic acid.
Here are the most common types of retinoid derivatives:
- Retinyl esters –This is the mildest type of retinol. It converts into the biologically active retinoic acid in three steps - first, into retinol, which converts into retinaldehyde, giving rise to the retinoic acid. The more conversions, the weaker the product.
- Retinol – This type requires two steps before converting to the final product - retinoic acid.
- Retinaldehyde (retinal) – This is the most potent vitamin A-based ingredient available obtain without a prescription and is ten times more bioavailable than retinol. It belongs to the retinoid family.
- Retinoic acid – Available by prescription only and is the most potent vitamin A ingredient used both for cosmetic and medicinal purposes.
Retinol is commonly used in ester forms and is often listed on ingredient labels as retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, or propionic acid. It is also often combined with other ingredients that moisturize and brighten the skin.
Form of Retinol and Retinoid
You can apply retinol topically as a gel, cream, serum, or lotion.
Some retinoids are applied topically, while others are available as oral medication (e.g., isotretinoin). You can find retinoids in the following forms:
- Tretinoin - Lotion (Altreno), cream (Avita, Refissa, Renova, Retin-A), and gel (Atralin, Avita, Retin-A).
- Granactive retinoid (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) – Studies show it is more stable than other retinoids. It is available in 2% emulsions and serums.
- Adapalene (Differin®) – Available over-the-counter as a 0.1% gel, while stronger formulations remain prescription-only.
- Tazarotene (Tazorac®) – This acne treatment is available by prescription only as a 0.05 % topical cream.
- Trifarotene (Aklief®) – A topical prescription medication for acne treatment.
- Isotretinoin (Accutane®) - An oral prescription medication for severe acne.
- Bexarotene (Targretin®) – A cancer medication available in capsules with a prescription.
- Alitretinoin (Panretin®) – Vitamin A-based capsule or topical gel for Kaposi’s sarcoma and T-cell lymphomas in off-label usage.
Note: Read how retinol serum and cream differ and which one to choose.
What Skin Conditions Do Retinol and Retinoid Treat?
Both retinol and retinoids have a wide range of applications for skin health. They help slow down premature aging, reduce acne, and brighten the complexion.
Retinol is the first-line defense against aging and an effective acne treatment. The most common skin conditions it addresses are the following:
- Acne
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Uneven skin tone
- Hyperpigmentation (e.g., age spots)
- Sun damage
- Rough skin texture
- Large pores
Retinoids are more potent and treat a broader range of skin conditions:
- Acne
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Keratosis pilaris
- Actinic keratosis
- Pigmentary disorders (melasma)
- Psoriasis
- Certain types of cancer (e.g., Kaposi's sarcoma)
How to Use Retinol and Retinoid?
If used appropriately, retinol and retinoids can help rejuvenate the skin and alleviate numerous skin issues. You can use both simultaneously with your doctor’s approval. If the skin becomes irritated, reduce the number of products and the frequency of applications.
Retinol
Start with a low concentration (e.g., 0.25% or 0.5%) and apply twice a week, gradually increasing frequency and dosage as your skin builds tolerance.
Apply at night to avoid possible photodamage due to increased light sensitivity. Use sunscreen during the day, as retinol can make your skin more prone to sun damage.
If your skin reacts well, you can turn to stronger retinol formulations or consult your doctor about recommended retinoid treatments.
Retinoid
Prescription-strength topical retinoids should also be used before bedtime to minimize sun damage. Start with the lowest intensity product and apply every other night, gradually increasing the frequency.
Apply a pea size amount of product after cleaning your face and before other products for best absorption. If you are using a serum, apply it after the retinoid and before the moisturizer.
Some ingredients may reduce the effectiveness of retinoids or increase their irritative effect. Consult your dermatologist to check if it is safe to combine benzoyl peroxide, alpha-hydroxy acids, ethyl alcohol, and witch hazel with your retinoid treatment.
Results of Using Retinol and Retinoid
Choosing the right product and applying it consistently can prolong the results and maximize the outcome.
Retinol
With consistent use of retinol, you can expect noticeable skin tone and texture improvements within three to six months. Retinol is less intense and works gradually to reduce fine lines, acne, or hyperpigmentation issues.
Use regularly to maintain the results, as they may fade with inconsistent use.
Retinoid
Retinoids yield faster results due to their higher potency. You can expect to see first results within six to twelve weeks of consistent use, and the improvements will become more pronounced after two to three months.
Results vary depending on the skin issue, the severity of symptoms, and the retionid concentration. Consistent use can prolong the effect, especially if combined with topical retinol.
Side Effects of Retinol and Retinoid
Introducing retinol and retinoids into your skincare routine may trigger a process called retinization, during which the skin slowly adjusts. This may be accompanied by temporary side effects:
- Redness
- Dryness
- Flaking
- Scaly skin
- Itching
- Stinging
- Increased sun sensitivity
- Hyperpigmentation
- Acne flare-ups
- Irritation
- Inflammation
- Dermatitis
- Blistering
- Swelling
- Rash
If you have sensitive skin and want to avoid irritation or reduce inflammation, choose low-concentration formulations that contain other anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as niacinamide, ceramides, or hyaluronic acid.
If the side effects become more severe or do not subside on their own, seek immediate medical help and consult your chosen dermatologist to learn how to alleviate the symptoms.
What’s Better, Retinol or Retinoid?
The choice depends on your skin type, the skin issue you wish to address, and the desired results. Consult a dermatologist for a personalized recommendation.
Retinol
If you have sensitive skin, doctors recommend starting with over-the-counter retinol as it is more tolerable than prescription retinoids. It is recommended for people with mild to moderate acne and aging issues, such as fine lines and dark spots.
Retinoid
If you have tried retinoids in the past or have excessively oily skin, you may benefit more from prescription-strength retinoids. Dermatologists prescribe them for chronic or severe skin problems.
Retinoids are typically not recommended to people with skin allergies, dryness, or skin changes triggered by hormonal imbalances. Do not use them during pregnancy, while breastfeeding, or without a doctor’s prescription.
Conclusion
Retinol and retinoids are excellent skincare rejuvenation treatments that visibly improve your skin tone and texture. These two can work wonders for your skin if you know how to use them to achieve the desired effect. If you are new to these two ingredients, consult a skincare professional to determine if you are a suitable candidate.
Our friendly staff at Vibrant Vitality Clinic will be happy to help you decide which one to choose.